The beauty and complexity of Kigali

Hello everyone!

It is hard to believe that my time in Africa is drawing to a close. The last two weeks have gone by so quickly! I am tired and a bit homesick, but also deeply grateful for and energized by this rich and invaluable experience. I have developed a much deeper understanding of the work supported by the Global Health Committee and built important relationships with potential new partners. My educational goals were exceeded in my time with Omni Med and I am hopeful that my final project will be a useful tool for them to use as they think about their strategic direction over the next few years. Personally I have been moved beyond measure by what I have seen here; the great challenges brought by extreme poverty as well as the incredible perseverance and ingenuity of the people who live here. I have also been heartened by the successes of the organizations (large and small) who work so hard to support those in need.

After I left Uganda last Saturday, I flew to Kigali for a few days. Kigali feels a world away from Kisoga and even Kampala. It is a very cosmopolitan city whose relative wealth, compared to its neighbors, is very apparent. I stayed at the Marriott which even by Chicago standards was luxurious. I'll admit to taking two hot showers the day of my arrival! Here again I was reminded of my privilege; moving seamlessly from bucket showers to high end toiletries. That said, I very much enjoyed my stay and appreciated the chance to relax and regroup.

On Sunday, I took a guided city tour which took us all over and provided a great glimpse into the city and Rwandan culture. The day ended at the Genocide Memorial. In 1994, over 1 million Rwandans were systematically murdered by their neighbors in the span of 100 days. The slaughter was encouraged by the government at the time and targeted at a maligned minority group.  In addition to the 1 million killed, over 2 million fled the country. Eventually, Paul Kagame (Rwanda's current president), leading a rebel group, stopped the slaughter. The country was devastated by the trauma, which makes it all the more remarkable the gains that Rwanda has made since that time. 63% of Rwanda's parliament is female; life expectancy has doubled; 91% of the population is enrolled in the government health system; and GDP growth is 7% per year.  I asked several Rwandans what they felt accounted for this astonishing recovery and all attributed it to political will and a strong government.

There is poverty in Kigali to be sure and country continues to struggle with high rates of maternal and child death and non-communicable diseases. That said, it was a good reminder (especially for an American) that Africa is not just one thing or one place, but rather a collection of beautiful countries with unique histories, cultures, challenges and successes.

View of Kigali

Eric takes us to a "milk bar". Cows are cultural currency in Rwanda and highly revered. Sharing a glass of milk together is an important custom.  The pastries were amazing!

A delicious Rwandan lunch. Similar to Ugandan food but spicier. 

We took a water taxi from this dock--just like Chicago!

Eternal flame at the memorial